I left my Heart in Ithaki: The Hidden Gem of the Ionian Sea

17 Jun, 2024

Ithaca, known locally as Ithaki, is a small island just south of Lefkada and next to the top half of Kefalonia. It is only accessible by boat so you really have to want to go there. And that's what makes it special.

There was a devastating earthquake in the 1950's and many of the “Ithakians” left for Australia or South Africa. Their families have been returning over the past years, renovating the old family homes and starting businesses, running hotels, opening bars, and jewellery shops etc.

It is also the island featured in Homer’s Odyssey, although there is some dispute if it was actually Kefalonia to the west or even Lefkada in the north. The island has a fascinating history of occupation by the Venetians, French and English. Wikipedia link

I took the Lefkada Palace ferry from Lefkada port to Pisaetos on the South Island. It takes 3 hours, costs €15 and stops in Meganisi. I didn't book a taxi for my arrival, but I was fortunate to be the first off the boat and secure the only available one to Frikes in the North, given the island has only 10 taxis.

I stayed in Frikes and ate at Nostimon (Delicious) Taverna twice It’s the only place to eat with 5 well-deserved stars on Trip Advisor. The best spinach and feta pie I have ever had, good lamb chops and the Nostimon Salad, with bacon and cheese was the perfect portion for a light lunch meal. A small ice cream stick served after the meal exemplified the thoughtful and friendly hospitality. Typically, a "free" dessert follows meals, such as cold watermelon at lunchtime or halva or galaktoboureko at dinner. Occasionally, we've also been offered shots of the local tsiporo.

I spent a little longer than planned at the taverna after a local bought me a carafe of wine and I got chatting with some other locals, including the past deputy mayor who told me about the water, electricity and road issues with the municipalities - not much different to what I used to hear in Johannesburg.

I visited Kioni, swam and shared a beer with friends at Cemetery Beach - the only time I have paid €3.50 for a 500ml Mythos Beer (the standard price is €5.00 everywhere else that I have travelled). The urban legend is that the locals don't swim at Cemetery Beach because the "juices" run from the cemetery into the seawater.

The shops are uniquely different, selling handmade pottery, jewellery and clothes sourced in Greece. Very different from the mass-produced products that are the same in almost all the shops in Lefkada town and Nidri.

Although there isn’t a bakery in town, you can leave a packet with cash and a note for the driver who brings fresh bread daily from Vathy. The driver will then leave your order, often hanging on a gate post.

Of all the islands we've visited, I would choose to settle on Ithaki. It embodies the spirit of Greece, with churches among the houses, vegetable gardens, and locals chatting over coffee. It doesn't cater to tourists by diluting the flavours in its food or selling plastic slip-slops and inflatable lilos! However, its charm comes with challenges. Ithaki's inaccessibility makes travelling to Athens, visiting Ian's mom, or receiving visitors, especially outside the summer months, more expensive and time-consuming.

Perhaps, peace will outweigh convenience? Only time will tell.